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Decoding today’s cosmetics
Author:  Narelle Chenery

Natural claims abound, but are they safe?
As the number of informed people who are concerned about the chemicalisation of society grows, more cosmetics companies are seen to be jumping on the "natural" bandwagon.  But what does "natural" and "organic" mean when you see it on a cosmetic package?  How do we know what we are buying is really "natural"?  What are the natural alternatives to chemicals? And is "natural" really better?

You are what you eat (and touch)
Our skin, the largest eliminatory organ in the body and our first line of immunity, is permeable to all chemicals.  Medical research shows that significant amounts of cosmetic ingredients, including carcinogenic substances, penetrate the skin and end up in the blood stream. Many chemicals in cosmetics don’t cause obvious signs of toxicity on the skin but slowly poison us thorough repeated use.

In America, a 1993 survey found levels of the highly toxic 1,4 dioxane in 27 out of 30 children's shampoo and bubble bath products tested.  Likewise, of 54 ethoxylated cosmetic raw materials tested, all contained 1,4 dioxane.  One study, conducted by the University of California, revealed that more than 58,000 hairdressers, manicurists and cosmetologists developed cancer at four times the rate of the general population.

Today, the administration of drugs and medicines is often through transdermal skin patches.  This has been shown to be up to 95% more effective than oral medication.  However, cosmetic manufacturers are not supposed to claim that the skin absorbs their products.  If they did the products would be labelled a drug (and henceforth governed by much stricter regulations.) 

This is both good and bad for us.  Good because it means our skin can be fed, nourished and treated from the outside with some wonderful substances.  Bad because it means we can absorb commonly used cosmetic ingredients that would never be allowed to be taken orally (as a food or drug), through our skin.

What does "natural" and "organic" mean on cosmetics labels?

Nowhere do the terms "natural" or "organic" take more of a bruising than the cosmetics industry!

You and I probably think of the term "organic" to mean grown and cultivated without the use of chemicals.  That would be the conclusion most cosmetics companies would like us to make when we see the term on a cosmetics label. 

Most cosmetics companies utilising the term "organic" on their label are using the chemistry definition of organic - meaning a compound that contains carbon.  Carbon is found in anything that has ever lived.  So, by using this definition of organic we could say that a toxic petrochemical preservative called methyl paraben is "organic" because it was formed by leaves that rotted over thousands of years to become oil, which was used to make this chemical preservative. 

Now if we look at the term "natural" we probably define it as "existing in, or formed by nature; not artificial". However, the trend today is to see long lists of chemical names, followed by phrases such as  "derived from coconut oil".  This is misleading and wrong.  

For example, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (which is said to be derived from coconuts) has been found to contain dangerous levels of ethylene oxide and dioxane, both potent toxins and known to cause cancer, created by the manufacturing process.

The source of the ingredient has nothing to do with what you end up with!  (Which is usually anything but natural and pure.)   To insinuate that a chemical substance is natural by adding the phrase "derived from coconut oil" is deceitful.

How do we know what is truly "natural" and safe?

Most adverse reactions to cosmetics go unreported; the vast majority of people who react to cosmetics simply stop using the offending product without notifying the manufacturer.  Many chemicals in cosmetics don't even cause signs of toxicity on the skin but still contain systemic toxins. 

The cosmetic industry is self-regulated.  Manufacturers are not obliged to tell us of the dangers associated with the ingredients they use, and are less than enthusiastic about conducting the necessary tests to determine the short and long-term effects of their products on consumers.  And why would they?  As long as we continue to buy products that contain these harmful chemicals, they'll keep making them, and make billions of dollars in the process!

Have you ever bought a cosmetic that you were assured was natural, only to get it home, read the label and wonder what on earth those long names are?  The author believes it is high time consumers were given the tools to be able to differentiate the deceivers from the truth tellers in the cosmetic industry!  Fortunately, there is one very simple way to differentiate between hype and truth in cosmetics - and that is to read the ingredient list.   Go to your bathroom now, and check your labels for these toxic ingredients:

Amine compounds
These chemicals combine with nitrosating agents to form cancer-causing nitrosamines in cosmetic products. One study found that over 40% of cosmetics containing Triethanolamine (TEA), have been found to be contaminated with nitrosamines.  And Dr. Samuel Epstein (Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois) says that repeated skin applications . . . of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of liver and kidney cancer.

Ethoxylated surfactants
Ethoxylated surfactants are widely used in cosmetics as foaming agents, emulsifiers and humectants.  As part of the manufacturing process the toxic chemical 1,4-dioxane, a potent carcinogen, is generated.  On the label, they are listed as ingredients ending with –eth, like laureth, contain the syllable -oxynol-, PEG (Polyethylene Glycol), Polyethylene and PPG (Polypropylene Glycol).  These chemicals may actually increase the rate of aging of the skin and leave you more vulnerable to bacteria.

Nitrosating agents
The following chemicals can cause nitrosamine contamination, which have been determined to form cancer in laboratory animals.   There are wide and repeated concerns in the USA and Europe about the contamination of cosmetics products with nitrosamines.

Anionic surfactants
One particularly nasty anionic surfactant is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).  Animals exposed to SLS experience eye damage, Central Nervous System (CNS) depression, laboured breathing, diarrhoea, severe skin irritation, and even death. Young eyes may not develop properly if exposed to SLS because proteins are dissolved.  SLS may also damage the skin's immune system by causing layers to separate and inflame.
Anionic refers to the negative charge these surfactants have.  They may be contaminated with nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic.  Surfactants can pose serious health threats.  They are used in car washes, as garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers - and in 90% of personal-care products that foam.

Cationic Surfactants
These chemicals have a positive electrical charge.  They contain a quaternary ammonium group and are often called "quats".  These are used in hair conditioners, but originated from the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents.  In the long run they cause the hair to become dry and brittle.  They are synthetic, irritating, allergenic and toxic, and oral intake of them can be lethal.

Lanolin
Any chemicals used on sheep will contaminate the lanolin obtained from the wool.  The majority of lanolin used in cosmetics is highly contaminated with chlorinated organo pesticides like DDT.

Talc
Scientific studies have shown that routine application of talcum powder in the genital area is associated with a three-to-fourfold increase in the development of ovarian cancer.

Synthetic preservatives
The decaying process is natural and goes on with or without preservatives.  Cosmetics do not (and should not) last forever.  Just like food, all cosmetics containing natural substances will eventually grow microorganisms and go rancid.  The chemical preservatives, colours and fragrances in cosmetics hide the obvious signs of putrefaction.  Chemicals used to preserve cosmetics are far more toxic, and cause many more reactions, than the bacteria they are supposed to protect us from.  Their effectiveness (not safety) has only been "proven" by torturing and killing animals (otherwise known as animal testing). Chemical preservatives are not used to protect the consumer; they are used to protect the manufacturer from economic loss.  It is far cheaper to produce vast amounts of product and warehouse it than to create small batches that ensure product freshness.  Avoid these toxic chemical preservatives:

FD&C Colour Pigments
Synthetic colours made from coal tar contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins onto the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colours can cause depletion of oxygen in the body and death. Animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic.

 Fragrances
Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, many toxic or carcinogenic.  Symptoms reported to the FDA in the USA include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and skin irritation.  Clinical observation proves fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, irritability, and other behavioural changes.

Mineral Oil
This petroleum by-product that coats the skin like plastic and clogs the pores. It interferes with skin's ability to eliminate toxins, promoting acne and other disorders.  Mineral oil slows down skin function and cell development, resulting in premature aging.  It is very widely used and promoted as being safe and beneficial for the skin (baby oil is 100% mineral oil!)  Mineral oil derivatives contain carcinogenic and mutagenic Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAH) and the carcinogen Anthanthrene.  Mineral oils are the major constituents of Sorbolene Cream and standard pharmaceutical aqueous cosmetic bases.

Silicone Derived Emollients
Silicone emollients are occlusive - that is they coat the skin, trapping anything beneath it, and do not allow the skin to breathe (much like plastic wrap would do.)  Recent studies have indicated that prolonged exposure of the skin to sweat, by occlusion, causes skin irritation.  Some synthetic emollients are known tumour promoters and accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes.  They are also non-biodegradable, causing negative environmental impact.

Rancid Natural Emollients
Natural oils used in cosmetics should be cold pressed.  The refined vegetable oils found on supermarket shelves and many health food stores which lack colour, odour and taste are devoid of nutrients, essential fatty acids, vitamins and unsaponifiables - all valuable skin conditioning agents!  They also contain poisonous "trans" fatty acids as a result of the refining process.
Another important factor to consider with creams made from plant oil is the use-by date.  The most beneficial plant oils  (like rosehip, borage and evening primrose oils) are polyunsaturated, which means they oxidise and go rancid fairly quickly  (about 6 months).  Most off-the-shelf cosmetics have a shelf life of three years.  Rancid oils are harmful, they form free-radicals, which damage and age your skin.

Propylene Glycol (PG) and Butylene Glycol
They easily penetrate the skin and can weaken protein and cellular structure. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs. PG is strong enough to remove barnacles from boats! The EPA considers PG so toxic that it requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles and to dispose of any PG solutions by burying them in the ground. Because PG penetrates the skin so quickly, the EPA warns against skin contact to prevent consequences such as brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities. But there isn't even a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than in most industrial applications.

Here is an excerpt form the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Propylene Glycol:

Health Hazard Acute And Chronic:
Inhalation: May cause respiratory and throat irritation, CNS depression, blood and kidney disorders, may cause nystagmus, lymphocytosis.
Skin:  Irritation and dermatitis, absorption.
Eyes: Irritation and conjunctivitis.
Ingestion: Pulmonary oedema, brain damage, hypoglycaemia, intravascular hemolysis/death may occur

What are the natural alternatives to chemicals?

Emollients
Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent, and lubricate and soften the skin.  They reduce roughness, cracking and irritation, and may help retard fine wrinkles.  Water is the best emollient, but because it evaporates too quickly, it is ineffective.  It needs to be held onto the skin by emollient oils in an emulsion.  Natural emollients actually nourish the skin.  They are metabolised by the skins own enzymes and absorbed into it.  They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality.

Some excellent natural emollients:

Jojoba Oil
Jojoba oil is a yellow liquid wax pressed from the bean of the desert jojoba plant.  It contains a waxy substance, similar to skin sebum, which gives a silky smooth feel.  Jojoba has excellent moisturising and protective effects; it penetrates deeply.  It is useful for acne, eczema, inflamed skin and psoriasis, and seems to have some possible benefits in preventing hair loss.

Avocado Oil
Unrefined avocado oil, which is dark green in colour, contains vitamins A, B₁, B₂, D, pantothenic acid and vitamin E as well as lecithin.  It is excellent for dry and wrinkled skin.

Hazelnut Oil
Expressed from the kernel of the hazelnut, this oil contains vitamins, minerals and protein.  It is said to be beneficial for oily or combinations skins and useful with acne.

Evening Primrose Oil
Expressed from the seeds of the evening primrose flower.  IT is extremely high in essential fatty acids (linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic).  It also contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).

Rosehip Seed Oil
The bright orange, unrefined rosehip seed oil is used to reduce scarring and facial lines, soften scars and retard premature aging.  It is high in vitamin F (essential fatty acids).

Shea Butter
This plant butter is produce from the nuts of the large karite tree in West Africa.  Some clinical observations suggest that shea butter increases local blood circulation in the skin, improving  the elimination of waste products.  Other studies suggest that shea butter helps to improve the elasticity of the skin, making it a valuable addition to products for all skin types.
The unsaponifiables and cinnamic esters in shea butter give it anti-microbial and moisturising properties and provide light protection against UV rays of the sun.

Surfactants

Surface-active-agents are substances capable of emulsifying oils and holding dirt in a suspension so that it can be rinsed away with water.  They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos.  Natural saponins (foaming agents) are a much better choice for shampoos.  They gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping the natural oils.

An excellent natural surfactant:

Yucca Juice
The Yucca Schidigera plant is native only to the south-western deserts of North America.  Traditionally Native American Indians used it for washing, shampooing, and for a myriad of different medicinal applications.
The natural saponins in the juice are responsible for its superior surfactant quality and eliminate the need for chemical detergents.   Biochemical research has shown that natural saponins, like those found in Yucca, repair the damage to cell membranes of the skin and scalp that result in a loss of nutrients.  As well as repairing the damage done by day-to -day treatment of our skin and hair, Yucca is a potent anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal.

Some excellent natural preservatives

Grapefruit Seed Extract
Grapefruit seed extract is a potent antibacterial and anti fungal.  It can also be used as an internal medication to relieve candida infections.

Olive Extract
Olive extract is a unique anti-oxidant from the olive leaf.  It protects both your skin and the polyunsaturated oils in our products from free radical damage.  It reduces skin damage caused by pollution and UV radiation, therefore protecting the skin from photo aging.  It also improves skin hydration and elasticity. 

Active botanical substances

Many cosmetic companies are including herbal extracts in their products these days.  Unfortunately, most herbal extracts sold as raw material use propylene glycol as a solvent, a substance to definitely be avoided!  Another concern is the concentration of herbs; herbal extracts require a dosage over a certain level to have a beneficial effect on the skin.  Judging by the lack of colour in most preparations, the concentrations are too low to have any effect!

The application of appropriate levels of active herbal ingredients provides the opportunity to tend to your skins unique needs.  Ideally, these should be applied after cleansing, when the skin is in a better condition to absorb treatment by the active ingredients found in herbals.

Following are some excellent skin care herbals to look for: 

A list of beneficial pure essential oils 

Is "natural" really better?

Every intelligent consumer will want to avoid synthetic chemicals in cosmetics.  By recognising them and knowing some of the possible problems their presence in a product can cause, and by knowing some natural alternatives and how they support and nurture our skin, we take the first step to a healthier, more harmonious and beautiful self.  In every choice we reinforce in ourselves either chaos or harmony.  What do you choose?

Our bodies can tell the difference.  The body responds to, and resonates in harmony with, things from nature.   By using only 100% absolutely natural, edible ingredients in what we nourish our skin with, we honour our body's innate intelligence.

Author:  Narelle Chenery

Director of Research and Development - Miessence

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Last modified: November 16, 2002